In the middle of Amman there is a part called "Al Balad". It is, as far as I know, the oldest part of Amman. You can see here a Roman theatre, bigger than the one in Jerash (see a few days ago), the Al Husseini Mosq with two minarets and all sorts of shops. Like in other eastern cities, the same craftsmen are next to each other.
There is a part (of a large street) with all the shops which sell charcoal or jewellery or ladies dresses or books or whatever.
Ankie in front of a jeweller in Amman.